Privé Porter’s Guide To: Hermès Birkin Sellier — The Stitching Style That Changes Everything

Privé Porter’s Guide To: Hermès Birkin Sellier — The Stitching Style That Changes Everything

In the Hermès universe, Sellier vs. Retourne isn’t a small detail — it’s the difference between soft and relaxed versus sharp, architectural, and collector-coded. And for the Birkin, Sellier has become one of the most talked-about constructions because it transforms the bag’s entire presence: cleaner lines, stronger structure, and that unmistakable “built like couture” finish.

This is your definitive guide to Birkin Sellier stitching, why it matters, and the exact sizes (and exceptions) collectors should know — including why the Birkin 20 (B20) has only been released in Sellier so far. 

1. What “Sellier” Means in Hermès Construction

Sellier (French for “saddler”) is a construction method where the bag is built with external stitching and sharply defined edges, giving it a more structured, formal silhouette. In contrast, Retourne is stitched and turned inward, creating softer edges and a more relaxed shape. 

Sellier Birkin signatures collectors look for:

  • Crisp, angular corners

  • Clean, boxier profile

  • Exterior stitching that reads more “tailored”

  • A more rigid, upright stance on the arm

This isn’t “just stitching.” It’s the bag’s entire architecture.

2. The Birkin Sellier Origin Story

Hermès introduced the Birkin Sellier as a structured variation after decades of the Birkin being most commonly seen in Retourne form. Sotheby’s notes Hermès introduced the Birkin Sellier in 2014, and that its architectural shape quickly captivated collectors.

Some sources also note that an early Birkin Sellier release included a limited edition Black 40cm crafted in a rigid leather (Vache Hunter), underscoring that Sellier initially arrived with strong “collector-only” energy. 

3. Why Sellier Birkins Feel More “Collector” Than Retourne

Sellier appeals to collectors because it:

  • Looks rarer (you see it less often than Retourne in classic production)

  • Feels sharper and more formal (especially in structured leathers like Epsom)

  • Photographs as more editorial and “new”

  • Holds its shape with a more “designed” silhouette over time

Retourne is iconic and wearable; Sellier is architectural and intentional. 

4. The Birkin 20: Why It Only Comes in Sellier

Here’s the headline collectors care about:

The Birkin 20 (B20) has, thus far, only been released in the Sellier style.

Sotheby’s also emphasizes that the Birkin 20 Faubourg was produced in the structured Sellier style, which helped turn it into an instant collector obsession.

At Privé Porter, the B20 inventory you see on the market is overwhelmingly tied to limited edition and ultra-rare releases (Faubourg “house” models, Disco, and exotic mini drops), reinforcing that the B20 is not a standard production size in the way Birkin 25/30/35/40 are.

5. What Sizes Does the Birkin Sellier Come In?

Based on Sotheby’s overview of the Sellier Birkin, the construction is commonly seen in 25, 30, and 35cm sizes. 

Birkin 20 (Sellier only — so far)

  • Released in limited editions and select exotic/ultra-rare drops

  • Most famously: Birkin 20 Faubourg, produced in Sellier 

Birkin 25 Sellier

  • The 25cm Birkin Sellier is a highly requested “modern classic” size with a sharp, polished profile

  • Often seen in structured leathers like Epsom but also available in Exotics or Box Calf

Birkin 30 Sellier

  • The 30cm Sellier is a sweet spot for collectors who want everyday function but a dressier look

  • Less commonly spotted than Retourne, which adds to the collector appeal 

Birkin 35 Sellier

Yes — it exists, but it tends to appear more often in limited edition / special production contexts versus being a “standard you’ll see everywhere.” For example, the resale market features limited edition Birkin Sellier 35 pieces (including multicolor special editions) that underscore how the size can skew more collectible in Sellier form.

6. How to Tell Sellier vs. Retourne on a Birkin (Fast Visual Checklist)

If you’re scanning photos (especially on resale listings), check:

  • Edges: Sellier = crisp, sharp corners; Retourne = rounded, softened edges

  • Stitching: Sellier = stitching reads more “outer” and defined; Retourne = seams feel tucked and softer

  • Silhouette: Sellier looks more boxy/upright; Retourne looks more relaxed/slouch-ready 

Conclusion: Sellier Is the Birkin for the Collector Who Wants Structure

The Birkin Sellier is a modern collector’s obsession for a reason: it takes an already iconic silhouette and makes it feel sharper, rarer, and more architectural.

And the Birkin 20 being Sellier-only (so far) adds an extra layer of exclusivity — signaling that Hermès is positioning the mini Birkin as a special, structured collectible rather than an everyday production staple. 

📞 Contact Privé Porter

For sourcing Birkin Sellier styles — including rare sizes, limited editions, and collector-grade pieces — our team offers global access and expert guidance.

Call/Text: +1 (305) 432-1285
Email: sales@priveporter.com
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